Hydroponics has come a long way in the last few years. It is no longer a mystery or secret technique. It is a simple reliable way of growing plants. Easier and more consistent by far than growing in soil. All you need to do is master a few basic principles on a step by step basis.....

Your local Hydroponic shop will have a wide range of Hydroponic kits and growing supplies and the options are unlimited. If you are a beginner at Hydroponic growing we strongly recommend that you concentrate first on growing plants as we describe below. Later, when you have mastered the basics, you can upgrade and automate your system. The nutrient solution is the basis of all Hydroponics, it is the most important thing for you to come to grips with and it is the key to your success. We are discussing this first because you will need a nutrient solution, whatever you are growing and whatever system you plan to use.

The nutrient solution is, simply, the liquid that you water your plants with. It MUST contain ALL the mineral elements needed for plant growth and they MUST be in the correct proportions. Nothing can be left out, even micro-nutrients such as Molybdenum which should be in your solution in a concentration of less than one part per million. Fortunately, these days, there are a number of good nutrient solutions on the market and it is simply a matter of choosing the product that best suits your particular needs.

Hydroponic Systems

Hydroponic Systems can for convenience be divided into two distinct types and we will term them Passive and Active Systems. A Passive Hydroponic system is one in which the nutrient solution is supplied to the plant periodically, usually by hand, and is allowed to sit in a reservoir of some sort to be used by the plant as needed. The simplest passive system is Pot Culture, which is fully explained below. Passive systems are not favoured by commercial growers because of the difficulty of watering large numbers of plants. For smaller growers they have a lot to offer as great results can be achieved with simple Pot Culture. The capital costs are usually much smaller too and there is less to go wrong.

An Active Hydroponic system is one in which a pump is used to supply the solution to the plants on a regular basis. The solution is usually re-circulated which is the most significant difference between the systems in terms of management. Active systems can be divided into several distinct types, the most important being RockWool, N.F.T and Flood and Drain. All these systems are well proven and they all have advantages in certain situations. It will be up to the grower to decide which system suits his or her purpose. All these major techniques will be examined in this paper with the intention of helping the grower to decide which suits them best.

Passive Systems

Pot Culture

This is the simplest and safest way of growing in Hydroponics. It is the true passive system, ideal for beginners but also favoured by experienced growers because remarkable results can be achieved with very little outlay. It is suitable for almost all types of plants and almost all growing situations. It is very cheap to set up and it is hard to fault it as an effective growing system.

Theory of Pot Culture.

Pot Culture is deceptively simple and it works due to the principle of capillarity. Basically it is a simple matter of filling a pot with a suitable medium and supplying nutrient solution from a reservoir (saucer). The medium will bring the nutrient solution upwards by capillary action and maintain a constantly moist environment around the roots. Although the medium will always be moist, it will also retain a lot of air spaces around the roots. It is this combination of constant moisture, constantly available nutrients and high levels of air supply that make up the perfect root zone for optimum plant growth. This is what makes Pot Culture work so well.

The Pot or Container.

First step in Pot Culture is the choice of a suitable pot and saucer. Pots should always be plastic. If artificial light is used, you will want to use white pots if possible. The ideal size for larger plants, such as Tomatoes, would be around 15 Litre capacity while a pot of about half that size will be useful for most small plants. The other requirement is a deep saucer to act as a reservoir beneath the pot. The popular HydroPot, available from most Hydroponic dealers, is ideal for larger plants. It has a 13 Litre capacity, is a brilliant reflective white and is supplied with a deep saucer. HydroPot is perfect for the cultivation of larger plants..

Growing Media

Having chosen a suitable pot or container you will need to fill it with a growing medium or soil substitute. The medium acts as an anchor for the roots and maintains a balance of moisture and air in the root zone. If it does this effectively then your pot culture will be successful so it is clear that choosing the right medium is of great importance. There are three main choices for pot culture and your choice will be determined by cost, availability and by the plants you plan to grow.

Perlite

This is a great medium, it is cheap and lightweight and amazingly effective. Perlite is a naturally occurring volcanic rock that is treated in a furnace in a process known as exfoliation. Perlite is highly recommended because it has superb capillarity. Capillarity is the ability to lift moisture from a reservoir and it is the key to success with Perlite. Perlite does have a tendency to attract Algae which will appear as a green stain on the surface, this is nothing to worry about but if is considered to be unsightly an occasional sprinkling of clean dry Perlite will keep it covered and under control. Perlite is by far the cheapest of the growing media and is available in 100 Litre sacks from any Hydroponic supplier.

GreenMix

This is a specially developed medium from Grodania of Denmark. It is blended from different types of RockWool to ensure the best possible ratio of moisture to airspace in a growing medium. This is unquestionably the growing medium of the future. It will hold far more moisture than anything else that we have trialled, while still retaining plenty of air around the roots. GreenMix is more expensive than Perlite or Clay Pebbles and may not therefore be viable for low value crops. For more valuable plants such as Orchids, for instance, it may well be found to outperform every other medium. GreenMix is now available from grow shops everywhere . Please ask your dealer for more information.

Expanded Clay (Clay Pebbles)

These pebbles are manufactured specifically for plant culture. They are lightweight and sterile and they have a distinct advantage over other media in that they are infinitely reusable. They are the perfect growing medium for house plants and almost anything in a small container and they are part of the Hydro Culture System which is designed for these plants, see below. They are less suitable however for large plants in large pots. This is because they are less efficient in lifting nutrient from the lower reservoir than the other media. Clay Pebbles are also available from your usual supplier.

Simple Steps to Successful Pot Culture

We will assume that you already have plants ready to be planted out. Or refer to the section on Propagation. Once you have your small seedlings or clones, you will be ready to move into Pot culture.

HydroPot is selected especially for Pot Culture. It has greatly reduced drainage apertures which makes it ideal. If you are using other pots with larger holes, you may need to reduce them as Perlite has a tendency to wash out through the bottom of the pot. This is not usually a problem with Clay Pebbles or GreenMix.

Pot Culture - with Perlite

1. The first step is to reduce the size of the holes at the bottom of the pot. Large holes will allow Perlite to wash out but they can easily be reduced with a simple strip of waterproof tape such as ducting tape, which is available from any hardware store. Holes must of course be left on the bottom of the pot to allow the free passage of nutrient solution into the pot and upwards into the root zone.

2. The Perlite can now be added to the pot and it should be filled to about the three-quarter mark.

WARNING

Dry Perlite is very dusty and is best handled outdoors. Care should be taken to ensure that dust is not inhaled as it may constitute a health hazard. GreenMix can easily irritate the skin and is best handled with plastic gloves.

3. Moisten the medium thoroughly with a hose or watering can. Once wetted, there will be no further problems with dust from Perlite. Make a suitable hole in the centre of the pot and place your seedling or clone in it. Add more media as required and rake it around the plant then firm it down as you would with soil.

4. Water your new plant thoroughly with half strength nutrient solution, OPTIMUM Grow for example, ensuring that reservoir (saucer) is full. With Perlite you should always water from the top, through the medium, until the saucer is full. You will need to make sure the saucer is topped up at regular intervals. While your plants are small they will probably only require watering every three days or so but they will grow very quickly and before long you will be needing to water them every day. You should try to let the saucer get empty between waterings as this allows good aeration of the roots.

NEVER let the saucer dry out completely. It is advisable to flush your pots by watering with plain tapwater water until it runs out at the bottom of the pot, about every 3 weeks to remove any potential build up of salts.

Circular Trellis

The circular trellis was developed esecially for Pot Culture. It is made of sturdy, plastic-covered wire and fits neatly into the 10 Litre or 13 Litre pot. It will hold the plant securely and allow the branches to pass through the mesh. This heps the plant to develop a good shape and assures that it cannot fall over.

Maintenance of Plants in Pot Culture

To maintain your plants in Pot Culture is now very easy. All that you need is a good-sized drum of nutrient solution and a watering can. Water your plants every two or three days. Try and ensure that the saucer does not dry out but avoid keeping it full all the time too. It is best to fill it just as it becomes empty which will allow maximum aeration of the root zone. It is possible to automate your Pot Culture system by placing drippers in each pot and using a pump on a timer. This is not usually recommended because each pot will require different amounts of nutrient so there will always be overflows. If you are growing in a greenhouse and have good control of the humidity levels, it may be possible to supply nutrient this way. For most situations, however, we will consider Pot Culture as a passive system that requires hand watering on a regular basis. Nutrient should be supplied to the plants at a CF of around 2 mS/cm² and a pH of 6. These values will be suitable throughout the crop but it is very important to check the solution in the saucers at least once a week. You may find the Conductivity creeping up and when you do it will be a very good idea to make up a tankful of pure water and use that for a few days until Conductivity in saucers has been well reduced. The Conductivity Truncheon is ideal for checking the solution in the saucers. If it does get very high it will be necessary to flush the entire crop. You can do this over the bath with a showerhead. You will need to pass several Litres of water through each pot to wash out the excess

Pot Culture - with GreenMix

GreenMix is a blend of mineral fibres in very exact proportions. Some of the fibres are water absorbent and the others water repellent. The result is a superb crumbly growing medium that combines the best characteristics of high aeration and good moisture retention to outperform any other soil substitute. The mixture is buffered with clay and lignite to ensure that a neutral pH is easily maintained. All the grower needs to do is water with a top quality nutrient solution such as OPTIMUM.

Growing plants in GreenMix is incredibly easy. In fact, in many respects, you treat it just like soil. Your new plants in wrapped cubes can easily be transplanted into GreenMix as follows.

1. Half fill a suitable plastic pot with GreenMix. Pot sizes as with Perlite culture above. Water gently with a half strength liquid nutrient solution until well wetted throughout.

2. Remove plastic sleeve from the Wrapped Cube and gently place it in the pot.

3. Add more GreenMix around the plant until it is well supported on all sides. Ensure that the wrapped cube is covered. Water gently with more liquid nutrient solution until it is running out of the bottom of the pot.

4. Place the pot in a tray or saucer. Ensure that there is nutrient solution in this tray at all times. As long as there is some moisture in the saucer, you can be sure the plant is supplied. Due to the fantastic capillarity of GreenMix, it may be found best to add nutrient to the saucer rather than through the pot. You will find that it will soak up large amounts of solution. Ensure that you leave the tray or saucer full after each watering. Allow it to get almost empty before watering again.

Recycling the Growing Medium

Perlite can be re-used after one or two crops but it is advisable to flush it through very thoroughly and pick out all the old roots before replanting. Some authorities recommend sterilising old Perlite with a weak solution of Oxy-Plus before re-using. Remember to flush thoroughly with fresh water afterwards. If you do decide to discard Perlite remember that it can be a valuable soil amendment and should be added to potting soils or dug into garden beds to increase friability. Clay Pebbles can be re-used indefinitely and it is an easy matter to sterilise them with bleach between crops, remember to rinse them thoroughly. GreenMix is difficult to re-use and is probably best used as a valuable addition to potting soils or just dug into the garden beds.

Active Systems

There are three basic types of Hydroponic system in use by commercial growers and they are all adaptable to smaller scale for the hobby grower. They all have advantages and disadvantages and the choice of the individual grower will depend very much on their specific requirements. It is only possible here to offer an overview of these systems with the intention of helping the grower decide what suits their purpose. Most Hydroponic shops will have a good range of books on commercial Hydroponics and we recommend that any grower contemplating an active system should read everything available on the subject. Please see booklist at the end of this leaflet.

Flood and Drain (Ebb and Flow)

This is a great system for handling plants in pots or other individual units. It is highly efficient and very easy to manage but it does require a bit of work initially to set up. The basis of Flood and Drain is a table with sides that can hold a certain level of nutrient solution. The solution should be pumped in on a regular basis and allowed to drain out as quickly as possible. The plants stand on the table in pots filled with a growing medium as in Pot Culture.

The incoming nutrient will rise up from the bottom, flooding the roots and driving all the stale air from the root zone. As the nutrient level begins to go down, fresh oxygen-rich air will be drawn down from the top. It is this dynamic interaction of moisture and air in the root zone that makes Flood and Drain so effective.

The diagram shows the basic principle of a flood and drain table with a submersible pump in the tank. The plumbing is quite simple but you need to ensure that nutrient will flow back through your submersible pump. Some pumps will not allow this and you will then need to install a bypass to ensure that nutrient can return to the tank and drain the table fully. It is VERY IMPORTANT to ensure that the table is completely level so that all pots receive the same amount of nutrient. The Future Garden Flood and Drain Table is a tried and tested system, which has many refinements and is considered the most complete system on the market today. Future Garden Flood and Drain Tables can be obtained from most Hydroponic dealers, please call in and ask for the Growth Technology product.

The best medium for Flood and Drain systems is undoubtedly Clay Pebbles. Pots should be flooded to at least one half of their total depth and this depth is set by the position of the overflow pipe. Flooding will be controlled by a timer on the pump but the emergency overflow outlet will allow this pump setting to be non-critical and will ensure that the table cannot overflow. Setting the timer will be a simple matter of timing the flood operation until nutrient is flowing out of the overflow. The pump should then come on for this length of time at least four times a day and up to twice an hour in very warm weather.

Important Points to remember with Flood and Drain

1. The table needs to be very strong. Remember that water is very heavy so you will need to calculate the weight in your table when it is full and make sure that it is constructed strongly enough to hold it. The equation is very simple and can be expressed as Length x width x max depth. (in cms) = Volume in Litres = weight in kilos (1 Litre of water = 1 kilo). A properly designed table will take care of the load easily but many homemade ones have failed and caused flooding disasters.

2. You will need to cover the table and exclude light or you will have a lot of algae around the bottoms of the pots. A sheet of white/black/white plastic will be ideal and can be stretched tight across the table before the pots are placed on it. It is then a simple matter to cut holes for the pots.

3. Flood and drain will be improved if you warm and aerate the nutrient solution before supplying it to the plants. A simple aquarium heater will suffice to maintain the temperature of the solution. 18 - 22^oC would be ideal. To further improve the oxygenation of the tank it will be helpful to make sure that the surface as agitated as possible during the pumping cycle and to provide plenty of fresh air at the surface. See comments on Oxygen in the nutrient section of this leaflet.

Flood and Drain systems can also be used with RockWool cubes on their own. This is in fact one of the best ways of handling large numbers of plants. Due to the high level of fluid retention in this medium, however, there are slightly different guidelines for its use. In the first place it will not be necessary to flood the table to any great depth, it is only required that the nutrient solution just touch the bottoms of the RockWool cubes. The table designed for RockWool cubes will therefore have the overflow pipe mounted much lower than for the pots of expanded clay. Alternatively the timer will be set for much shorter periods. It will be necessary to place the cubes on something, such as plastic matting, to raise them slightly off the table. This will allow excess moisture to drain downwards efficiently. Alternatively the RockWool cubes can be pushed into a square net pot which will allow a space between the cube and the bottom of the table while allowing the rots to pass through the pot with no restraint.

Good drainage is of crucial importance when using RockWool cubes on a flood and drain table. It is also very important to cover the table to exclude light. Once again this can be achieved by stretching white plastic across the table. It is even more important with RockWool cubes to ensure that the table is completely level and therefore that all the plants receive the same amount of the nutrient solution.

NFT

Nutrient Film Technique is usually referred to as NFT. It involves the growing of plants in shallow streams of nutrient solution inside plastic gullies, as shown in the diagram.

It is a brilliant system and is now used widely for the cultivation of tomatoes and other large plants. It has also been adapted in recent years for the production of smaller plants such as Lettuces and Strawberries. The principles are the same but the size and layout of the gullies needs to reflect the final size of the plants being grown. It will only be possible, within the scope of this leaflet, to discuss the general principles as they apply to the smaller grower. For anyone contemplating using this system commercially, we would strongly recommend a good book on the subject, such as The ABC of NFT by Alan Cooper.

First step to NFT is finding a suitable tray or channel. Best for the home gardener will be AquaFlow trays which are purpose designed for NFT and which have major advantages over the older systems. The AquaFlow tray has a series of shallow channels running the full length of the tray. These channels allow the rapid passage of nutrient down the tray, an essential element of good NFT design, while keeping the RockWool cube slightly above the water level thus reducing its level of saturation.

Once the plants are located in the channel the nutrient solution should be introduced at the higher end and allowed to pass in a shallow stream down to the lower end where it is collected and returned to the tank. Although this is a very simple system there are certain things to bear in mind before embarking on it. In the first place the tank should be as large as practically possible. This is because the Conductivity and pH of the solution will be changing all the time and a large tank will minimise the effects of this and reduce the number of times that you will need to check the solution. For commercial growers it is advisable to retain at least two Litres of tank volume per plant in the system. For smaller operations, however, that ratio should be increased to at least three to five Litres per plant. The larger the tank, the better. It is also very important to ensure that the nutrient is sufficiently oxygenated. Fortunately this is very easy to achieve because there will be excess pumping capacity that can easily be diverted back to the tank. The diagram shows a typical layout for the pump and it will be seen that the installation of the two plastic gate valves at A and B give the grower total control of the system.

In normal operation, valve B is kept completely open, allowing unrestricted supply of nutrient to the plants. Valve A is closed down just enough to give the desired flow rate at the gully ends. The solution that is still passing back to the tank should be sufficient to stir and agitate the tank vigorously and thus enrich the solution with oxygen. It would be even better if the outflow from the bypass was kept a few inches above the water level in the tank. This would let the returning liquid drop into the tank. This will increase surface agitation still further and increase oxygenation. However it may be found that this becomes somewhat noisy which may not appeal to the indoor grower. If noise is a problem it will be better to locate the outflow under the water level. Similarly the nutrient returning from the growing system can be allowed to fall, from as much height as possible, back into the tank. It will be noisy but it will certainly increase Oxygen levels in the tank. This layout of pump plumbing is very suitable for other systems such as RockWool cultivation.

· When adjustments are made to pH or Conductivity it will be possible to close valve B completely, shutting off supply to the plants, while opening valve A to the fullest extent. This will increase the agitation in the tank and make a very quick job of the adjustments. NB. It is very important that there is not more solution in the system than the tank can hold otherwise a power cut could cause a flood.

Nutrient should be supplied to the gullies at between one and two Litres per minute, depending upon the gully width. This is easy to measure with a plastic drink bottle or similar which can be held under the supply tube to one gully while you measure the time it takes to fill. This will be adjusted by opening or closing valve A, remembering to keep valve B wide open.
You should now run your NFT system for a day or two to make sure that there are no leaks before placing plants in it.
Larger plants such as tomatoes are best propagated in the RockWool wrapped cube and should be placed into NFT gully as soon as roots begin to appear at the bottom of the cube (not before). Smaller plants, such as Lettuce, Herbs and Strawberries can be placed bare rooted into the nutrient film.

The AquaFlow System

This new and innovative system is based on a purpose designed plastic tray that will hold up to 35 plants in RockWool cubes. The larger 2-metre tray is suitable for up to 45 plants. The tray is provided with a unique irrigation system, which sends a film of nutrient solution down multiple narrow channels on the bottom of the tray. The RockWool cube does not sit completely in the solution and thus does not get waterlogged. This system was designed by people with many years experience with commercial NFT and it works brilliantly well. It is possible to buy as a complete kit, containing everything needed for successful NFT or you can just buy the trays for installation in a large-scale system. If you want more information about AquaFlow then please just ask at your local Hydroponic store.

N.F.T System Management

Once your system is running you will notice the rapid growth of a root mat in the nutrient channel. The bare roots are interfacing directly with the nutrient solution and this is the great strength AND also a potential weakness of the NFT system. The direct contact between the roots and the solution makes for unparalleled growth and superb plant performance, provided that the nutrient solution fulfills the following requirements:

1. Correctly formulated for NFT	NFT is the most demanding form of Hydroponics as far as the nutrient solution is concerned. As there is no medium to act as a buffer the solution must be in good balance with all the elements required for good plant growth. Ensure that the solution you choose has fully chelated trace elements which is of great importance in NFT. In all cases please make sure that you use the Hard water formulation if you are in a hard water area. It will make your life very much easier.
2. Correct pH and Conductivity	Once again, these things are much more important in NFT than in passive systems. pH should be maintained at 6 or slightly lower, and needs checking and correcting on a daily basis. Conductivity requirements may vary during the life of the crop. A good starting point would be around 2 milliSiemens, which is normal full strength for products like OPTIMUM. It may be advisable to increase this with plants such as tomatoes when they are setting fruit. If you wish to place small plants into an NFT system and keep them compact and bushy, you may find that a high Conductivity in the early stages of growth, some growers go as high at 4 mS/cm² or higher, will be a very effective way of doing it.
3. Aeration and temperature	Nutrient solution should be constantly agitated to ensure maximum aeration and heated with an aquarium heater to maintain temperature around 18 - 22^oC . see notes on Oxygen under Nutrients.

RockWool Systems

Culture Slabs

GRODAN RockWool Culture Slabs come in a great variety of shapes and sizes to suit commercial growers. Best size for use by the home gardener is the 900-mm (3-ft.) or the 1200 mm (4 ft.) which is an ideal size for growing tomatoes, cucumbers or plants of similar size. Culture slabs are wrapped in plastic to give better performance. This plastic should NOT be removed.

1. Lay your culture slab on a clean surface. This should preferably be its final location as it will not be easy to move once it is planted up. Attention MUST be paid to drainage. This can be achieved by placing slab on a board with a slight slope from end to end. Nutrient will drain from the lower end of the slab and can either be collected or allowed to run to waste. Easiest way to handle slabs is by using the RockWool Tray, which holds the slab firmly and has built in drainage holes.

The RockWool Tray is another innovation for commercial growers that has many uses for the home gardener. Once the RockWool slab is fitted into the tray it constitutes a rigid module that is easily handled and readily moved around. Irrigation of plants in a RockWool is very easy, in fact it can be done by hand and nutrient solution can easily be collected and re-used. RockWool trays are available from most Hydroponic shops.

2. Place Culture Slab into Tray. Mark positions on top of slab where you intend to place plants. .

3. After placing a wrapped cube in the chosen place, draw around it with a felt pen. Then make two diagonal cuts with a sharp knife forming an X inside the square. Do this with all plant locations on the slab.

4. Make up at least 10 Litres of Nutrient Solution. Europonic is the recommended solution for RockWool and full instructions are supplied with the pack. Pour the solution slowly into one of the openings on top of the slab. Keep pouring slowly until the slab is full. The sides will bulge out at this point and it will be obvious that the slab is completely full. Allow to stand for at least an hour, preferably overnight.

5. Before planting, just lift the lower end of the slab out of the tray and make a couple of short cuts in the plastic sheet with a sharp knife. This will allow the nutrient to drain out through the lower end of the Aqua Tray.

6. Fold back the cut pieces of plastic and place your wrapped cubes on top of the culture slab.

DO NOT REMOVE PLASTIC SLEEVE FROM WRAPPED CUBE.

Make sure that the RockWool surfaces come into contact and are not separated by plastic.

Now place your RockWool Tray in a warm sunny place or underneath a good quality horticultural Light. The best way to supply nutrient solution to the slab is by way of drippers, which should be activated at least twice a day and should run until surplus nutrient is flowing out from the slab. Alternatively you can water daily with a watering can. Once again make sure that watering continues until an excess runs out from the bottom of the slab. The cultivation of plants on RockWool slabs is a major commercial horticultural technique. Thousands of acres worldwide are devoted to it and it is obviously impossible to give complete instructions within the scope of this brochure. For anyone who is seriously interested in this amazing way of growing plants, we earnestly recommend the book “Gardening Indoors with RockWool” by George Van Patten which will be available from your local Hydroponic shop.

Basic Layout of Re-circulating RockWool System using 1.2m slabs and RockWool Trays.

Introduction.

This system is based on normal commercial practice in production of Cucumbers, Tomatoes, Peppers and certain flower crops such as Roses and Gerbera. It is designed for mono-cultural cultivation and is not suitable for mixed gardening. This design is for re-circulation of nutrients, if you intend to use a total loss system you will need a larger tank and provision for run-off. Cultural practices will differ with total loss as opposed to re-circulation.

This system will suit a larger greenhouse and is highly recommended with the following provisos;

1. Most plants grown in this system will need support from above.

2. This system is based on the use of RockWool Trays in steel channel. Each tray is 1.3m long and contains one slab. Plant spacing will depend on the crop but will usually be between two and six plants per slab.

3. Steel channel is recommended to hold the RockWool Trays. This can be acquired at any sheet metal workshop where it will be folded to your requirements. The lightest gauge will do and it must be galvanized. Remember to line the channel with plastic sheet to ensure that nutrient solution does not come into contact with the metal. An extra length of the same channel will serve to collect the nutrient run-off at the end of the channels and return it to the tank.

Layout

Layout of the system will be similar to the design in the diagram. Important things to remember are:

1. Tank position is dictated by the system layout. It MUST be below the lower ends of the rows and also needs to be close to tap or hose end. Tank volume should be at least 2 Litres per plant in the system. Larger volume is better.

2. Flow rate at all drippers should be approximately the same. This is easily measured with a jug and a stopwatch. In larger systems there may be a fall off in pressure between the rows with the furthest row getting inadequate supply. If this happens an extra PVC pipe should be added to join points A and B. This will equalise pressure in the system and ensure that all drippers run equally. In most set ups this will be unnecessary and point B can be closed off with an end cap.

3. A line filter should be included between the pump and the outlets to guard against dripper blockage. This filter will require regular checking.

4. A bypass should be included in the tank/pump set up. This will serve two purposes, in the first place it will provide accurate control of supply to the drippers. This will be achieved by adjustment of the gate valve on the bypass. It will also ensure that the pump runs freely and add high levels of oxygen to the nutrient solution.

Although this is a very simple system there are certain things to bear in mind before embarking on it. In the first place the tank should be as large as practically possible. This is because the Conductivity and pH of the solution will be changing all the time and a large tank will minimise the effects of this and reduce the number of times that you will need to check the solution.

For commercial growers it is advisable to retain at least two Litres of tank volume per plant in the system. The larger the tank, the better. It is also very important to ensure that the nutrient is sufficiently oxygenated. Fortunately this is very easy to achieve because there will be excess pumping capacity that can easily be diverted back to the tank.

The diagram shows a typical layout for the pump and it will be seen that the installation of the two plastic gate valves at A and B give the grower total control of the system. In normal operation, valve B is kept completely open, allowing unrestricted supply of nutrient to the plants. Valve A is closed down just enough to give the desired flow rate at the gully ends. The solution that is still passing back to the tank should be sufficient to stir and agitate the tank vigorously and thus enrich the solution with oxygen.

When adjustments are needed to pH or Conductivity it will be possible to close valve B completely, shutting off supply to the plants, while opening valve A to the fullest extent. This will increase the agitation in the tank and make a very quick job of the adjustments.

Advantages

Disadvantages

Pot Culture

Very cheap to set up.

Uncomplicated design.

Adaptable to a wide range of plants.

Plants can be moved around to optimise spacing.

Great results for beginners.

Usually requires hand-watering.

Needs regular flushing.

NFT

1. Superb performance.